įor more information on leading lines aft, read here.Īdditionally, it may be advisable to hang small high load blocks from the sails cringles to reduce the friction further. Although this method does not offer any additional purchase, your cabin top winches will surely be able to overcome any load that you might encounter. I n order to make things simple we, at The Rigging Company, prefer the first system – no shuttle blocks. ~ Pay attention to this if having a new sail made~ Reef systems that utilize shuttle blocks can also be problematic in that they can limit the height of the reef point to the length of the boom. The shuttle block system, although providing more purchase, can cause increased friction and even worse – lines to become twisted or tangled inside of the boom this can make it difficult or even impossible to reef the mainsail when necessary. It does this utilizing ‘shuttle blocks’ which run on the inside of the boom. The other method’s end result is the same (one line to pull on, back in the cockpit), but it adds yet even more sheaves. #T CLEW RING SERIES#reef cringle, then down through a fairlead on the mast to the deck and aft via a series of (you guessed it) more sheaves, then to a clutch, and finally to the winch (gasp!). end of the boom, which will turn the line forward to another sheave at the inboard end of the boom, which will turn the line upwards to the i.b. reef cringle, down to a sheave at the o.b. One is to ‘simply’ run a line from the outboard dead-end, up through the o.b. In general, this system is configured in two ways: Single line reefing essentially means that the outboard and inboard reef cringles use one line to tuck (or haul down) both ends of the sail. Since more and more boats these days are leading the halyards aft, single line reefing has become a very popular method for reefing your mainsail. TIP: friction can easily be overcome by your winches, but be careful, because this is how things get broken! Single Line Reefing When the boat is stable again and everyone is settled in, safely, go and clean up the reef slabs. Lastly, tension the main halyard, loosen the boom lift and then sheet-on as needed. Once the reef is tucked, double check to make sure all leads are fair and take the reef line to the winch and begin to tension it adequately. Now, continue to tension the reef line (you should be able to do this without a winch) and tuck the inboard and outboard ends to the boom. #T CLEW RING FREE#If the wind is so strong that the sail won’t lower easily, make sure the halyard is still free to run and pull the reef line and/or jack lines at the luff slides to help lower both ends of the sail. Be sure to pay out enough halyard so that the reef is actually below the boom. Ensure all leads are fair, ensure the boom topping lift has been snugged-up (this is very important), release the vang and then the main sheet slightly so as to just luff the sail. Try and stay calm and think clearly about what you are doing, and what you are about to be doing. Take time to first make sure that you are safe and tethered to the boat (in position to perform the reef). When reefing, conditions are usually rough and frustrating. Today I want to talk about the difference between the two reef systems and how they should be set up.į IRST: Read below for a few thoughts on reefing procedure Reefing or reducing a conventional/non-furling mainsail can be done by way of either a slab or a single line reef system.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |